I'm no longer able to access my old Facebook profile, pages or groups.
(Also the old Hotmail email address is long gone).

Friday, January 31, 2014

Ten Thousand Colors

A friend in our group showed us this lovely, I mean gorgeous, new blog:

Read their about page, on Cathy Williams and Lois Marlow-Scott.

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Does our temperament and/or our palette change over time?

Someone asked this in my facebook group:

"I have a huge question that I have heard various views about in color analysis. I am wondering about childhood coloring vs. adult coloring? These twins for example look like they would have been different seasons as children than they do as adults. I have seen people who seem to have very different coloring than when they are smaller and it makes me wonder if season can change? What do people think about this?"


"Do Personal Colors change? I have a new hair color now and I think I might need a new palette."
"Personal colors can change if your hair color is new or different. Also, although we remain basically the same throughout life, with age your colors may soften and lighten. In these cases, a new color palette is a great idea." Rose Ann Woolpert

"Age alters your colouring. With Seasonal Colour Analysis, we were told that once your colours had been determined, they would never change. You only need to look at photos of people when they were 18 and 60 to see the dramatic change that occurs to skin, eyes and hair colour over time. As your colouring changes, your colours need adjusting."  Image Innovators

"Will My Season Change If I Dye My Hair/Wear Color Contacts/Tan?"  Yes, but within your own season (eg. Winter, Spring, Summer, Autumn) or your color palette's 'sister group' (eg. Clear Winter and Clear Spring). Some women may notice that when they dye their hair lighter they can wear lighter colors." Chic Fashionista

"Age causes your hair to gray, skin tone to become cooler and lighter, and your eye color to lose its brightness. You'll notice that you look better in cooler and/or less intense colors than the ones you wore when you were younger and your coloring was brighter and had more depth to it. Less intensity - cooler color palette This results in moving down on the intensity scale of your personal coloring. You basically have to determine your seasonal group based on the colorings you have now. Based on the description you provided I would say you are now a Cool Winter (blue eyes, ruddy-fair skin and salt & pepper red hair). However, if you have a lighter shade of red hair color, you may now be a Light Spring, and as your coloring gets cooler you may turn into a Light Summer." Chic Fashionista

" Age will change your coloring - With seasonal analysis you were told that the same band of colors that suit you when you are 18 will still suit you when you are 80.- Not True! Everyone gets cooler and paler with age. A warm person looks cooler as they age and like the late Queen Mother who was a Spring in her youth (as was Queen Elizabeth) had cooled into a Light Summer in her old age."  source

"These days we know that there are 6 main qualities that you might have in your coloring: Light, Deep, Warm, Cool, Clear and Soft. Once you find your dominant characteristic, you are well on your way to finding your best colors. Depending on the time of year and your level of tan, you may flow between the seasons of your dominant characteristic." Leave Me To My Projects

Steiner says we do change from childhood   The temperament you were when you were a child changes when you become an adolescent. "...the Sanguine turns Phlegmatic, the Phlegmatic turns Melancholic, the Melancholy turns Choleric and the Choleric turns Sanguine." In other words, the temperament refines. Your secondary is often correlated with the type of one or both of your parents. Your temperament as a child may become your secondary as an adult.

Though not directly correlated because it's about MBTI: 
"Jung believed that all the functions are largely unconscious and undeveloped in infants. As we grow and develop, the different functions develop. The timing of this development has been the subject of considerable study. It is generally believed that the dominant generally develops up to age 7, the auxiliary up to age 20, the tertiary in the 30s and 40s and the inferior or fourth function at midlife or later." source

Callaway says Caygill says we get softer.

Jennifer Butler moves people around between seasons, but also talks about someone being a certain season by color and another by personality.

 at about 6:00 minutes


"People often ask if our patterns change as we get older. They do not -- your color pattern is genetic, and as unchanging and unique as your fingerpint.  However, although the pattern is constant, our personalities and our physical coloring do tend to tone down with maturity.  If, like Picasso, you go through a 'blue period,' this is an indication of a specific psychological mode, which you may be in for several years.  You will come through it much more positively if you ensure that the blues you choose are in the right tonal family for you.  Children tend to prefer the stronger, brighter end of their spectrum. Often when a woman finds that there are colours she used to wear which she simply cannot get away with now that she is older, she assumes that her colouring has changed.  The truth is they were never good colours for her. Harmonious colours make us look and feel younger, healthier and less tired -- but when we are young, we can get away with negative colours because we are younger, healthier and less tired.  If a colour is right for you, you can wear it any time of day or night, with or without make-up, from the day you are born to the day you die." Wright

"Your undertone is fixed and determined by your genetics, and is shared by all your colouring including your tan. Your Season doesn’t change with a tan, though you might have different colour preferences, for the higher contrast with the lighter choices, for instance. Many Bright Winters can find black too severe or their coolest colours too shadowing, and a tan might change those tolerances enough to feel more comfortable. When you’re tanned and look warmer, the undertone might seem warmer. Whatever undertone means, it doesn’t mean ‘overall feeling and effect’. This is one of those “It looks warmer and feels like it should be warmer, so therefore it is warmer.” conclusions that are not necessarily sound. Even pure cool Seasons can tan very golden looking. They look more yellow, but when their colours are tested, it’s still the same cool yellow their genetics always produced. They may have more melanin, which contributes red, brown, blue, and/or black, depending on the type of melanin, but it’s the same colour of melanin that it always was." 12 Blueprints

"When your hair color changes, does your Season change? As we age, we all will get gray hair. Does that mean we will then all be a Summer or Winter, as assumed above? NO. Your complexion fits into one of the Seasons. Your hair coloring may make you look somewhat like another season, but your Season remains the same. If you've been given the right colors they will look good on you for the rest of your life! Take a look at at the pictures below. They are all gray haired individuals and they are all different seasons." Color Me a Season

"The skin undertone is determined by different elements, namely hemoglobin, carotene and melanin. The composition of these 3 pigments is defined by genetics. This means that the composition will never change during a lifetime. Skin color (or skin overtone) can change due to a number of factors, such as exposure to sun, illness, blood pressure, etc." New Start at 40

"Skin color, rather than hair or eye color, determines a person's season. Bernice Kentner warns, "Remember, do not rely on hair coloring to find your Season!"[13] While hair color may change over the years (and hair or eye color may be artificially changed by dyeing and colored contact lenses), the person's color season will not change." wikipedia

"Your hair color may change over the years, but your color category at birth remains the same throughout your life. Your skin may deepen with a suntan or yellow or fade with age, but you will always remain the same seasonal color type." source

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Thursday, January 30, 2014


I don't know why I got so into this topic, and I've almost left it a few times, but it seems to be something I'm interested in for a reason.  I want to eventually incorporate enough knowledge and confidence that I somehow advance our understanding.  I really don't see this as superficial. There is something quite deep here, quiet and deep.

and why are some people so territorial about this knowledge that should be for the advancement of all?

My approach is to find as many sources as possible. This runs the risk of uncovering too many opinions and options, which can prove overwhelming. But the goal is to search for what seems true in each author's perspective, but also to show you that you have choice. Evaluate what you like and leave the rest. Some information will fit you better than others. Don't work too hard at making it all line up. Over time, your intuition will grow as to how it lines up for you.

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Four Type Systems explanation of type colors

Caygill 1980, Segerstrom 1980 & 1988, Callaway 1985, Donner 1983, Wright 1999, Butler 2007, Garza/Lupo 2008, Zyla 2011, Standish 2011

Type 1: brights with brights, and brights with neutrals (clear, bright, fresh, appealing)
Type 2: gradations of the same color, closely related muted colors (soft, shadowy, blended)
Type 3: mutli-colored earth tones, textured earth tones (warm, earthy, rich)
Type 4: unequal amounts of two contrasting colors (cool, still and brilliant)

Spring: light, medium or dark colors from a meadow or garden, but wears darker colors with light; some Spring can wear black but not by face, beiges and browns are based on skin and hair color, usually golden
Summer: quiet, soft colors, tinged with grey, blue or rose; muted, soft, blended, wear analogous colors; rarely includes yellow
Autumn: rich earthy colors, made by blending colors, no pure colors; worn analogously or monochromatically with accent of contrast
Winter: pure, deep, intense, brilliant, or icy pastels, few middle colors; striking, smooth, serene, luminous

The Enthusiast: dawn colors, clear, pure, bright warm colors and tints with a yellow base
The Compassionate: noon colors, blue based tones of medium intensity, almost hazy
The Dynamic: sunset colors, full, warm, rich, yellow based medium to dark
The Analytical: moonlight colors, the stark, pure, cool hues of winter or midnight

Morninglight Type 1: bright, warm and essentially light, tints, colors with clarity (no darks, even the navy is warm and bright)
Dreamlight Type 2: virtually all tones, subtle colors, high percentages of grey in them, no clear primary colors
Firelight Type 3: warm, lively colors, more intensity, mainly shades, no primary colors
Starlight Type 4: very strong primary colors, strong contrasts between pure hues, extreme tints and extreme shades, but not tones

Sun: clear brightness of the Sun, refreshing tropical colors
Moon: the moon's hazy glow, cool colors
Earth: the soft reflection and warmth of the Earth, sumptuous earth tones
Star: the shimmering twinkle of the stars, modern jewel tones

Please read my summary of all of these sources here.

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

The Color Connection

Joan Callaway
(Analyzed here at Beauty Valued).

The Color Connection: From a Retailer's Perspective Reprinted now
By Joan S. Callaway

Especially good about secondary seasons and aspects of design. Illustrations have not been updated. 

 "A graphic  and photographic representation of the Seasonal Color Harmony theory as it relates to the fashion industry and is being taught by color consultants around the world. This book is an essential reference for designers, buyers, sales associates, as well as consumers who wish to expand their knowledge and refine their style with or without having had their colors painted or draped. For the designer: If the style, fabric and color are in harmony with a seasonal type, the item will be more successful at retail, as well as more successful for the consumer. For the retail buyer: the book shows you how you can improve your buying and reduce markdowns by using the guidelines. The book resulted from the experiences of the author in her women's clothing stores, Tarika, in Davis, Ca. and Sacramento. An awareness of what at the time many thought was just a fad improved her buying, increased sales, and reduced markdowns and customer returns. For the sales associate: The Color Connection shows you how to be thought of as more than "just a clerk." For the consumer: The guidelines illustrated in The Color Connection show you how to reduce "closet mistakes", by using your best colors, planning your wardrobe, and developing a personal outer style consistent and in harmony with your inner style. Whether you have already a color fan in your possession or are just beginning to think about having your colors painted or draped, this book will help you refine your style. Much of the book is a composite of theories as that I have learned through reading, seminars and from having my colors done eight times, including by Suzanne Caygill, author of Color, The Essence of You. Hundreds of illustrations and photographs, as well as text, translate what I have learned and believe to be more fact than fad or fiction - a theory whose time has come. "

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Tuesday, January 28, 2014


Sci Art / Spectrafiles PCA color Palettes the cost of the Textbook is 65.50 please email to request your copy.

You will find in this book:
- a discussion of personal color tone and how we see and feel it
- color classification, order, and terminology
- the personalities of each of the rainbow’s colors
- the how and why of simultaneous contrast, the basis of personal colour analysis, with illustrations of the optical effects that create the illusions we see in right and wrong colours
- the 12 Tones of Personal Color, their predominant characteristic, their colors and feelings, and cosmetic colors (please note that these are descriptions, not colour palettes or swatches)
- unique, innovative, and detailed coverage of the personality traits of the 4 True Seasons
 - the use of color in your wardrobe and in your home to feel, convey, develop, balance, or counteract many emotions Purchase Books can be purchased directly from Spectrafiles owner, Suzanna Greif. (The name Sci\ART continues to refer to Kathryn’s work. The present day supply of swatch books and drapes continues under the new name, Spectrafiles.)

I just saw this on facebook.  I don't have this book.

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Coming up to 500,000 hits!

We are within 10,000 visits of 500,000 since 5/26/11! woot

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Saturday, January 25, 2014

Depression and the Types

Temperament author, LaHaye states:

“Although depression is common to all temperament types, none is as vulnerable as the Melancholy.* Melancholies can go into longer and deeper periods of depression than any of their fellows. Sanguines, if they do become depressed, remain that way only briefly. Being so susceptible to the immediate environment, a bird flying overhead, a change of activity, or a cheerful companion coming on the scene can transform their depression into joy.

Cholerics are rarely slaves to depression. Perennially optimistic, they look with disdain upon depression because of its impractical resultant apathy. They are not overly occupied with themselves but have long-range goals and plans that more occupy their minds productively.

Phlegmatics would probably rate second in depressive tendencies among the four temperament types, though their periods of depression would not be as frequent or as deep as the Melancholy because of their basically cheerul nature and sense of humor. Of course, we are not one solid temperament type, a PhlegMel is going to be vulnerable to depression. A ChlorMel will also experience depression. Again, virtually no one is exempt.”

*The reason LaHaye states that Melancholics are more prone to depression, is they are typically self-centered and perfectionistic.

Spirit-Controlled Temperament 
by Tim LaHaye

Why You Act the Way You Do
by Tim LaHaye 

Other posts on depression

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Friday, January 24, 2014

Types vs. Seasons

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Before DYT


personality test archetypes personal colors draping consult blog
Segerstrom 1980 uses keywords
Donner 1983 very short quiz

4 reds Finland
Wright 1999 quiz in book
yes (add)
Butler 2007 essence test

Garza 2008 colortype quiz yes eyes, skin, blush
see blog
Zyla 2011 not really yes zyla colors
Standish 2011 humors quiz
includes eyes
see blog

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Make a Segerstrom Signacard

Jane Segerstrom
As you may already have read here, there is another out of print set of books that also has a four type system:
Jane Segerstrom's Look Like Yourself and Lo...  c) 1980
Style Strategy: Winning the Appearance Game  c) 1988


She posits that you can determine your type with personality tests based on Hippocrates and LaHaye four humors, which she renames as types.  But you are unlikely to fit neatly into these boxes as one type, so next she suggests making a "Signacard" which is color representations of your hair, eyes, skin and liptone on a card, perhaps using fabric or paintchips.  This is very much like basic Zyla colors!  If your hair has more than one shade, you can select more than one color.  Your eyes may have more than one color also.  Roll down your bottom lip and look at the color inside to see the color you tend to blush.  Then your palette should harmonize with and enhance all of the colors on your signacard.  Some colors will enhance your hair, eyes and lips, but dull your skin.  That color is not for you, keep looking.  You can take this simple card with you shopping as well.
According to Segerstrom:
Type 1 colors are clear, clean and bright.
Type 2 colors are soft, grayed, blended.
Type 3 colors are warm, rich and earthy.
Type 4 colors are brilliant, contrasting, clear.

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Saturday, January 18, 2014

Grace Morton on Temperament

From "Understanding and Dressing to Temperament" chapter in Grace Morton's "The Arts of Costume and Personal Appearance."

"Having been introduced to the many factors which, when mastered, enable one to select costume technically right, there is yet to be considered that culminating aspect of taste known as dressing to express mood and temperament.  And for this we need insight into and understanding of human nature in addition to our knowledge of design and color, texture, and the techniques of camouflaging figures.

We have been told that its secret lies in dressing to suite one's personality, but many of us have entertained a secret wish to know more about that elusive quality called one's personality.  One author has an answer in her descriptions of certain historic characters and their modern counterparts, i.e., the maternal, the intellectual, the exotic, the queenly, the youthful, etc. (Story) Another writer would have us 'cast our role,' as a coquette, or sophisticate; a romantic type or a gamine; a patrician or an exotic personality (Byers)."

"...the maternal, the intellectual, the exotic, the queenly, the youthful...a coquette, or sophisticate; a romantic type or a gamine; a patrician or an exotic..."

"Turning to social psychology we find the well-known and accepted authority, Allport, stating that personality is based on native physical endowment and habit systems....

...Anatomical characteristics of 'size, weight, proportion of body, texture of hair and skin,' coloring, etc.

...Temperamental traits or characteristics of emotional moods. 'Most individuals have a characteristic emotional level.  The leading question concerning a particular person is 'What part do emotions play in his daily life? Is he choleric or phlegmatic? ... " etc.

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Friday, January 17, 2014

EYT Makeover Assists

"I tried different sytems with no luck, nothing seemed to fit and the more I looked the more depressed i became. When I found Jane's site, pulling everything together things started to make sense. Its not been easy I just didn't think I was pretty and had tried so hard to be someone I was not to make up for it, but as I tried wearing some of the styles Jane showed me I started getting compliments REAL ones an about me not my top. Again there is not thanks enough for this." xx Samantha

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Shop by Type

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Grace Morton

  • Grace Morton

  • "Grace Margaret Morton was head of the textiles and clothing division at the University of Nebraska for over twenty years.  During that time, she was appreciated by her students and fellow faculty members as a person of unusual talents. A scholar of wide interests, she had a vision that placed her ahead of her time in sensing the psychological and economic implications possible in as study of clothing.
    Her expressed goal in her teaching of both undergraduates and graduates was to help students to recognize and value beauty, to strivee to bring it into their surroundings, and to achieve real creative satisfaction in their use of color, line and texture in their study of clothing.
    A tall and striking figure, Grace Morton evidenced her creative abilities in her own manner of dress and in her beautiful home.  Both showed the distinction and elegance which were a part of her unique personality.  Her untimely death came a few months after the publication of The Arts of Costume and Personal Appearance in 1943. Through the generosity of her family, the rights to her book were given, ten years later, to the University of Nebraska as a memorial to her. The accumulated royalties have provided a substantial addition to the Grace Margaret Morton Scholarship Fund."

  • ... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

    Saturday, January 11, 2014

    The many ways you can DIY Drape

    How much of this stuff can you do yourself?  
    You're probably interested in that if you're reading here.

    • TUTTLE (Dressing Your Truth) You choose a Type, which you essentially have to do on your own (though you can get consults), you get a color card.  Every woman of a type uses the exact same color card.


    • CAYGILL, JACKSON, KENTNER, (Pinterest board
    • Caygill had 4 seasons, with about 4-6 subtypes each (look at pinterest board).  Jackson and Kentner reduced to just the 4 seasons, without any subtypes.
    Color Me Beautiful uses gold and silver draping to determine warm and cool.

    How to Build Your Own Drape Set

    Back in the 80s, when the Color Me Beautiful Seasons were the craze, I had purchased a silver lame and gold lame drape set.  This was to help determine if you were cool or warm.  You can purchase these from a fabric store, cutting them to about 13 x 19 inches each.

    You also might guy a piece of black fabric and one in white.  This will help you rule these colors in or out for you.  You want to see if the color drains in your face when you are draped with each color.

    You could go as far as creating your own beginner drape set:
    Cool: Silver Lame, Black, White, Rose (Winter), Gray and Pink (Summer)
    Warm: Gold Lame, Warm Dark Brown, Orange (Autumn), Peach, Light Warm Yellow (Spring)

    Remember that probably most people are neutral, in that they can wear silver or gold, and either have neutral skin, or their hair, eyes and skin are a combination of cool and warm.


    An important way to "drape" is to consider which neutrals you can wear.  Only Type 4/Winters can wear black and not even all of them!

    Closet Draping

    You can also do a lot with clothes in your own closet, to see how they effect your face.
    One site that will help you analyze this is Glowing Color.

    I've done some closet draping.

    Closet Draping

    • COLOR ALLIANCE, BEAUTY FOR ALL SEASONS, now bought out by COLOR ME BEAUTIFUL, Requires a consult in person or online
    • I was analyzed by Kathleen Moore Cook online with Color Alliance in Sept. 2013, and found that this system allowing for  CONTRASTING type in each season solved my dilemma!

    • SONGER & KITCHENER (Personal Style Counselors) Requires a consult
    • When you get analyzed by Kitchener, you get a personalized palette (of fabric swatches) with percentages of the four types he uses, as well as archetypes.

    by Jane Segerstrom
    • SEGERSTROM (Look Like Yourself and Love it 1980.  I have this book.) I just mention her because it shows how far back this 4 system typing goes! Segerstrom has four types only with colors determined by chroma like DYT, but existed way before.
    It's too bad this book is out of print, because it has so much in it.  It's got many, many overlaps with DYT and it has suggestions to look for your body colors and palette colors yourself.  More on this soon!

    by Naomi E. Donner 
    • DONNER (Color for Body & Soul, I have this book.Four types with the properties of the seasons for colors.
    Donner's Suggested Color Test

    Get four pieces of fabric, of different shades of red, 

    2 of which are yellow-based and 2 of which are blue-based:
    1. a clear, pure tangerine, strawberry or poppy
    2. a rich flame red or tomato red
    3. an azalea red
    4. a strong intensive, bluish peony red

    Do the following test (preferably with a friend):

    If you are undecided whether your basic temperament is Enthuisast T1 or Compassionate T2, drape numbers 1 and 3 alternatively against your face.  Between Compassionate T2 and Analytical T4, drape 3 and 4.  Compassionate T2 and Dynamic T3, drape 3 and 2.  Enthuisiast T1 and Dynamic T3, drape 1 and 2.  Dynamic and Analytic T4, drape 3 and 4.  Analytic T4 and Enthusiast T1, drape 4 and 1. (I am adding the Type numbers, she does not use them).

    • SINCLAIRE (IlluminEssensce) You can get toned in person at an event or by sending in a video and completing an assessment they give you (options).When you get analyzed by IlluminEssensce, you get a color fan for your seasons (not personalized, but it indicates colors for different purposes).

    by Jennifer Butler 
    • BUTLER, membership site (totally worth it!). Very expensive in person consult.  You can take her essence test (for $2.00).  When you get your colors done by Butler, you get a personalized palette with fabric swatches for different purposes, including relating to your skin, hair and eyes.  She uses the four seasons, but has the multiple subtypes that Caygill intended.

    • ZYLA (Color Your Style)He is based in New York City, but has been travelling doing private assessments.  You can apply his suggestions to determine your season based on your romantic and dramatic colors.  Zyla Colors  
    • Romantic Colors are either Crisp and Clear, Cool and Relaxed, Warm and Mellow or Rich and Contrasted.
    • Zyla's book is essentially a do-it-yourself, he shows you how to find colors from your skin, hair and eyes, and combine those with the four seasonal palettes.  He then suggests subtypes, but you have to figure out which one you are, or want to be.
    Zyla mentions chroma on page 20.


    Elea Blake Makeup does Lip Draping and Mineral Foundation Draping

    Lip Draping 

    • STANDISH: How Not To Wear Black  
    • She gives information about eye types to correlate with the seasons.
    • She has a questionnaire to determine the seasons by the four humors.
    • She gives directions on how to drape yourself at home.
    • See also my EYE DIAGRAMS

    The Toilet Test

    • KALISZ (Sci/Art) SCAMAN
    • You have to get professionally draped for Sci Art


     that pull colors

    I used this tool to choose COOL.
    I also chose WINTER, but I notice it has charcoal, not black.

    ... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane