I'm no longer able to access my old Facebook profile, pages or groups.
(Also the old Hotmail email address is long gone).

Monday, April 28, 2014

Face Shape & Hair Guide

As I am studying for CMAS Certification and doing drapings with people live, I am developing the report that I will give clients.  Currently, I am working on sections on face shape and hair styles, in part informed by the CMAS system.  First month free at my Forum, allows you to download of Face Shape & Hairstyle Guide.

Download an excerpt

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Saturday, April 19, 2014

The Lucky Guide to Mastering Any Style

(combination of Natural and Classic)

(combination of Natural and Classic)

Blog: Bohemian
(combination of Natural and Romantic or Angelic)

(combination of Dramatic and Romantic)


(combination of Dramatic and Angelic)

(combination of Classic and Gamine)

(combination of Dramatic and Gamine)

Also read about this at:
The Lucky Guide to Mastering Any Style

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Friday, April 18, 2014

Yin to Yang

The Most Yang

The Most Balanced

The Most Yin

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Yin & Yang

Yin & Yang can be applied to the types and fashion in two ways or levels.   The first involves color types and the second involves style categories.  

The four seasons or types are breaking color categories into levels of yin and yang, sometimes referred to as active yin, quiet yin, dignified yang and active yang.  This translates also to Type 1 being yang yin, Type 2 being double yin, Type 3 being double yang, and Type 4 being yin yang.  

Then possible design lines indicated by levels of yin and yang are categorized by various authors.

& Northrup
vivacious youthful dainty
reserved mature dramatic striking
7 yin yang style types

active yin quiet yin dignified yang active yang

David Kibbe vibrant dusty rich contrast
13 yin yang style types

spring summer autumn winter

John lively subtle earthy striking
7 yin yang
Kitchener bright blended rich contrast
style types

David Zyla spring summer autumn winter
6 style types

per season

Carol Tuttle Type 1 Type 2 Type 3 Type 4

Yang Yin Yin Yin Yang Yang Yin Yang

Belle Northrup's style archetypes include:  
(from most Yang) Dramatic/Theatrical, Natural/Relaxed, Exuberant/Lively, Classical/Traditional, Romantic/Sensual, Youthful/Playful, and Ethereal/Angelic (to most Yin).  

These are the same as used by John Kitchener.

David Kibbe's style types:

Kibbe The Classics soft or dramatic

Kibbe The Naturals soft or flamboyant 

Kibbe The Gamines soft or flamboyant 

Kibbe The Dramatics soft or classic

Kibbe The Romantics theatrical

Sanguine (high energy, Yang) Spring (T1) energetic overflow of energy
Phlegmatic (slow, Yin) Summer (T2) lowest blood flow energy
Choleric (powerful, Yang) Autumn (T3) most volatile flow of energy
Melancholic (reserved, Yin) Winter (T4) slightly higher energy

Zyla see below

 McJIMSEY on Yin Yang

Art and Fashion in Clothing Selection 
by McJimsey, c) 1973

Yin and Yang contrasts by McJimsey

SHAPES and personalities
Generally people use the S-curve or oval for Summer and either rectangle or asymmetrical triangle for Autumn, but the Spring and Winter shapes vary by author.  But the idea of correlating them has obviously been around a long time.
BOLD (square) left, DRAMATIC (triangle) right

CLASSIC (circle) left, ROMANTIC (tear drop) right
INGENUE  left,  GAMIN right


Harriet McJimsey (and Belle Northrup's) style archetypes include:  (Most Yang) Dramatic/Theatrical, Natural/Relaxed, Exuberant/Lively, Classical/Traditional, Romantic/Sensual, Youthful/Playful, and Ethereal/Angelic (Most Yin).

Most Yang:


Most Yin:


HEIGHT is one aspect of moving from yin to yang.

Pflaumer reports the heights according to McJimsey/Northrup associated with style archetypes in Shopping for the Real You.  

Under 5'3” Exuberant/ Lively
Under 5'4” Youthful/ Playful
Ethereal/ Angelic
5'4-7” Classic/ Traditional
Romantic/ Sensual
5'5-7” Natural/ Relaxed
Above 5'7” Dramatic/ Theatrical



Yin and Yang
by Bernice Kentner
(it comes on cd)
It actually has quite a bit of Chinese Face Reading in it, combined with Seasons and facial features.

face shapes:
spring=triangular, oblong, summer=square, round  , autumn=square  , winter=oblong
totally different

IMPORTANT, do not try to fi nd a person’s color type
(Season) from the shape of the face or the features! When
the Color Analysis is over and Body Typing begins we
may use the Yin and Yang designations to help us suggest
the clothing lines an individual needs.

Phlegmatic (slow, Yin) Summer (T2) lowest blood flow energy
Melancholic (reserved, Yin) Winter (T4) slightly higher energy
Sanguine (high energy, Yang) Spring (T1) energetic overflow of energy
Choleric (powerful, Yang) Autumn (T3) most volatile flow of energy

Zyla Iridescent Summer - Mysterious Mermaid 2/1
Zyla Dusky Summer - Earth Mother 2/3
Butler Dusty Rose
Zyla Sunset Summer - Elegant Bohemian (brown eyes!) 2/3
Zyla Renaissance Summer - The Drama Queen  2/3?
Zyla Classic Summer - The Classic Beauty 2/4
Zyla Jeweltone Summer - Glamour Career Girl  2/4
Zyla Dynamic Winter - Passionate Leader
Zyla Playful Winter - Ballerina
Zyla Soft Winter - Romantic Poetess
no board yet
Zyla Classic Winter - Queen
Zyla Antique Winter - Keeper of the Hearth - really more like an August
no board yet
Zyla Vivid Winter - Earthy Philosopher
no board yet

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Friday, April 11, 2014

Names of Seasons

Names of Seasons

Spring Summer Autumn Winter

Sanguine Phlegmatic Choleric Melancholic
Primary Type 1 Type 2 Type 3 Type 4
Spring Absolute Spring
Pastel Spring
 Light Spring
 Early Spring
 Light Spring is Tinted Spring
Light Spring Soft is Toned Spring
Glorious Spring
Warm Spring
True Spring
Golden Spring
Floral Spring
Buoyant Spring

Tawny Spring
Shaded Spring
Striking Spring
Clear Spring
Bright Spring
Vital Spring
 Vivid Spring Contrasting Spring Mischevious Spring Pure Spring
Summer 2/1
Sunshine Summer

Light Summer 
Fair Summerlight Iridescent Summer Tinted Summer
Absolute Summer Twilight
Indian Summer 

Soft Summer 
Muted Summer
Dusky Summer Sunset Summer Twilight Summer Dusty Rose Sum Romantic Sum Renaissance Sum Tapestry Summer Tawny Summer
 Soft Summer Light is Toned Summer
 Soft Summer Deep is Shaded Summer
Moonlight Summer

Cool Summer 
 True Summer 
Classic Summer Jeweltone Summer Contrasting Summer Pure Summer
Autumn 3/1
Golden Autumn Warm Autumn
 True Autumn
 High Autumn
 Pure Autumn
Gentle Autumn
 Soft Autumn 

 Muted Autumn Mellow Autumn Gamine Autumn
Tawny Autumn
 Soft Autumn Light is Tinted Autumn
 Soft Autumn Deep is Toned Autumn
Absolute Autumn Firelight 3/4
Striking Autumn 

Deep Autumn 
 Dark Autumn
Metallic Autumn
Bronze Autumn
Spicy Autumn
Copper Autumn Contrasting Autumn Shaded Autumn
Winter 4/1
Firelight Winter 

Clear Winter
 Bright Winter Contrasting Winter Dynamic Winter

Playful Winter 
 Pure Winter
Snowfrost Winter

Cool Winter
 True Winter
 Classic Winter
 Soft Winter

Patrician Winter
Tinted Winter
Sunset Winter
Deep Winter
 Dark Winter
 Exotic Winter

Antique Winter
Vivid Winter
 Shaded Winter

 Deep Winter Soft is Toned Winter
Absolute Winter Moonlight

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane

Thursday, April 3, 2014

The Seasonal Types and Personality

How far back does it go to identify appearance, and color harmony, with personality or temperament?  Of course, the Greek's started looking at the humors, thanks to Hippocrates, and also described some aspects of facial types.



Many of the following author's are mentioned in my Color Analysis Timeline. Also see more here.

Bernice Kenter's Color Me A Season (1979), has a short personality quiz to determine your season, along with draping. And she introduced the idea that eye patterns follow the seasons.  She also introduced using the concept of yin and yang, which creates six categories: dramatic, athletic, classic, romantic, gamin and ingenue.

Suzanne Caygill correlated descriptions of four categories of people, described as the seasons, eventually publishing that in Color: the Essence of You in 1980. Students of her continue her method creating personalized fabric swatch palettes. You can see that in my earlier post on the adjectives assigned to the different seasonal types by various authors.  You can also see this correlation here:

Joan Songer was a student of Caygill, and she founded Personal Style Counselors in 1978, now run by John Kitchener.  PSC describes four personality types with different color palettes, that are customized for each person.

Another student of Caygill, Taylore B. Sinclaire, developed IlluminEssensce with four Tones, which are correlated to four color harmonies and personalities.

Also in 1980, Color Me Beautiful, by Carole Jackson came out.  This was probably the most popular book, still known today.  Most people think that seasonal color analysis is about color only, but even Jackson's book talked about the personality of the seasonal palettes (though no personality quiz) and she also talked about clothing personality types (dramatic, sporty/natural, romantic, ingenue, and classic).

Jane Segerstrom, describes the personality of four types in her 1980 book Look Like Yourself and Love It.

Color for Body & Soul, written by Naomi Donner of Finland, also involves four types, which she calls Enthusiast, Compassionate, Dynamic and Analytical.  She also gives quite of bit of the history behind her correlations, but she was also a student of Caygill.

Joan Callaway, does an amazing job correlating not only color but various design aspects with personality of the seasonal types, in her book The Color Connection, first published in 1986.

In The Beginner's Guide to Colour Psychology, Angela Wright, covers the four seasons, their color harmonies and personalities.

Jennifer Butler refers to the four seasons as having different essences in her 2007 book, Reinventing Your Style.

David Zyla presents different archetypes that are subtypes within the four seasons in his book Color Your Style, 2011.

In How Not to Wear Black (2011), Jules Standish has a quiz to determine your dominant personality traits, related to the seasons.  She also goes through eye patterns associated with them.

Links to books:

Color Me a Season: A Complete Guide to Find...
by Bernice Kentner , 1979,
Get the new expanded version at:

A Rainbow in Your Eyes: Yes, You Can Find Y... 
by Bernice Kentner 1982 

Tie Me Up With Rainbows: A Guide to Beauty ... 
by Bernice Kentner 1983

Yin and Yang the Inner Story  CD
by Bernice Kentner 1988 

Color: The Essence of You
by Suzanne Caygill 1980 classic

Jane Segerstrom's Look Like Yourself and Lo...
by Jane Segerstrom 1980

Color for Body & Soul: Discover Yoursel...
by Naomi E. Donner 1983

The Color Connection: From a Retailer's Per...
by Joan S. Callaway, 1986, republished 2013

The Beginner's Guide to Colour Psychology
by Angela Wright 1999

Reinventing Your Style: 7 Strategies for Lo...
by Jennifer Butler, 2007

Color Your Style: How to Wear Your True Col...
by David Zyla, 2011

How Not to Wear Black
by Jules Standish, 2011

... but hey, don't listen to me, EXPRESS YOUR TRUTH! Jane