August 2012

Monday, August 20, 2012

Adding in your secondary

Assuming that one way to handle your secondary, is to make it secondary to your palette.  In other words, keep your palette colors (DYT, IE, Wright, Kitchener, etc.), but then add in some of the other aspects: design lines, fabrication, texture or pattern of your secondary.

Here are the three types with secondary 1, differing in their base palette.

Here are the three types with secondary 2, differing in their base palette.
Here are the three types with secondary 3, differing in their base palette.

Here are the three types with secondary 4, differing in their base palette.

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Sunday, August 19, 2012

How some of the systems differ: body shape

The Truth About Your Body Shape - Dressing Your Truth Beauty Tip

Carol and Anne make the point that dressing to your body shape is secondary to the 5 elements of DYT: color, design lines, fabrication, texture and pattern.  So if you dress in those elements for your type, your body shape is less problematic.  One thing to highlight is what design lines mean: essentially the shapes of your clothing should support your movement.

The Science of Personal Dress

Irenee Riter's system is based so much on body shape that the types are referred to by their core shape.

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Saturday, August 18, 2012

Types and Tones

Before DYT there was:
Suzanne Caygill 1942, book 1980 
Joan Songer & John Kitchener, Personal Style Counselors, 1964
Jane Segerstrom 1980 & 1988
Angela Wright, Color Psychology 1985
Taylore B. Sinclaire IlluminEssensce ~1992
see Types and Tones

Jane Segerstrom
There is another out of print set of books that also has a four type system:
Jane Segerstrom's Look Like Yourself and Lo...  c) 1980
Style Strategy: Winning the Appearance Game  c) 1988


"Personality is a useful tool for indicating one's Type, but appearance is equally effective .  If the two were in opposition we'd have a dilemma, but they aren't.  Recent independent research by Frances Quinn, Suzanne Caygill, Joan Songer and Don Cardwell in the San Francisco Bay area has proven one's coloring, bone structure and personality mutually reinforcing.  You're made right." p. 23 Look Like Yourself and Love It.

Suzanne Caygill, Color: The Essence of You 
Joan Songer, originator of Personal Style Counselors 

She cites Tim LaHaye's work on termperments
correlates them with the types.

T-1 Sanguine, T-2 Melancholy, T-3 Choleric, T-4 Phlegmatic
*Note she reverses T-2 and T-4

She actually has a personalized method of choosing your unique colors, but then also gives these guidelines:

T-1 colors are: clear, clean bright
cool grays, clear grays, blacks, creams, beiges, coffees, medium browns, dark browns, navy blues, lemons, limes, kellys, turquoises, aquas, blueberries, raspberry sherberts, grapes, violets, lilacs, lavenders, roses, strawberries, tomatoes, melons, salmons, peaches, orange sherberts, and tangerines.

"wear crisp, smooth fabrics... small scale, round shape detailing on necklines, collars, lapels, buttons, buckles, and jewelry..."

jewelry: "highly polished round earrings, bright and amusing, smooth round beads, creamy pearls, thin gold or silver chains, airy rings of gold loops or flowers or butterflies, heart-shaped silver pin or key chain ornament...."

T-2 colors are: soft, grayed, blended
creamy off-whites, grayed beiges, grayed and pinkish browns, clear and blued grays, blacks, dull navys, soft yellows, soft greens, grayed greens, grayed blue-greens, gentle blues, soft purples, lavenders, mauves, delicate blue-reds, soft reds, roses, pinks and peachtones.

"wears variations of one color head to toe, keeping contrast to a minimum... soft luxurious fabrics... jewelry choices are highly refined; ...pearl... brushed silver ovals..."

jewelry: "exquisite ... look of age... fanciful engraving... glowing cameos, filigreed lavalier, oval locket on narrow velvet ribbon... clusters of stones instead of solitaires, esp. opals, amethysts, garnets, cabochon emeralds, smooth pink coral, pearls, diamonds and other glowing iridescent jewelry."

T-3 colors are: warm, rich, earthy
warm grays, blacks, all the browns, coppers, rusts, brownish reds, reddish purples, burgundies, purples, teals, olives, avacados, acid greens, sages, celerys, golds, golden yellows, and pumpkins

"gauzy or handwoven shirts in earthtones... lapels are sharp and the pocket detailing - angular... buttons are no longer classic; now they're rough-textured metal, bone or woven leather..."

jewelry: "all the metals-copper, nickel, brass, bronze, gold, silver, platinum-worked in unusual, asymmetric designs.  Choose antique, hammered, encrusted effects.  Lion's head, temple dragon or serpent designs, heavy squash-blossom necklace, celtic cross, carved ivory... (etc) ... multiple chains."

T-4 colors are: brilliant, contrasting, clear
all the whites, all the blacks, clear grays, bluish grays, brilliant yellows, shocking oranges, scarlets, fuschias, cerises, red-purples, royal purples, bright royal blues, peacock blues, bright aquas, emerald greens, silver and cool bright pastels.

"best look is a beautiful one, totally understated, no frills, trims, or applied design... clothing with the simplest of lines... but nothing drab....

jewelry: "limit to only ONE important piece for any outfit...Look for strong, clean shapes.  Wear a finely-crafted, highly polished silver arm-bracelet... earrings include half-moons, buttons or drops which do not swing or make a sound... shiny oval pendants... matched strands of pearls/jet beads/crystal beads, silver chains and settings of onyx, sapphine, star sapphire, ruby, emerald or diamond."

Note: she only gives whites to T-4 but give blacks to all the types but T-2s!

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DYT Secondary?

"FAQsDo I need to know my secondary Type before buying my Dressing Your Truth Course?
Most women do not know their secondary Type before buying their Dressing Your Truth course for their Beauty Type. Once you begin to dress and live in your dominant Beauty Type, your secondary Type will start to reveal itself. You do not need to own courses for both Types."

How and Why to LOVE Your Secondary Energy Type

youtube video text
Even though you're all 4 Types in my Energy Profiling System, you lead with a dominant expression....And your secondary Type can come in a close, well, second... You identify your secondary Energy Type the same way you identify your dominant Energy Type—intuitively. 

We are meant to live consistently in our dominant Energy Type. Our secondary is just meant to be a support. Unfortunately, many adults were wounded as children and overdeveloped their secondary Energy Types because they felt safer that way.

Should I buy another course for my secondary Energy Type?

"NO! You should always dress in your primary Energy Type. If you start to mix you will become more confused and will not create the movement you want to bring out your best look. You will naturally be drawn to how to bring in secondary features..."

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A criticism of systems like DYT, Color Psych and IE that you will hear is that they are two simplistic and limited with only 4 types or tones.  This criticism of the original four seasons of Color Me Beautiful, etc., led to the 12 Seasonal categories we have today (and sometimes even 16 categories).

There are arguments on both sides of the simplicity question. I definitely think that it's hard for people to focus on just one aspect of their personality to the exclusion of others. But (even though I'm a DYT critic) I can see why forcing the expression of your "dominant" in one of the four categories expresses an archetype that they each represent.  These 4 category systems emphasize color, design lines, fabrication, texture and pattern, but the way they use color is not correlated to your personal coloring as much as an expression of your energy movement.

Type 1= yang, then yin, Type 2=all yin, Type 3=all yang, Type 4=yin, then yang

 When you dilute the archetype with your secondary energies, you do just that dilute the message. DYT (and IlluminEssensce and Color Psychology) are based on the idea that you are expressing something primal.  I've come down on both sides of the argument at different points in my journey.

If Spring correlates to Type 1/Tone I, it is mostly yang, with some yin, and light upward movement.
DYT associates air with T1, while Wright associates water with it, but they both have the same shape, circle.

"These colours are delicate, warm and clear, containing very little 
black – ideally, none. They are often tints."*

So comparing these guidelines for the 1/I category to the three Spring season breakouts, what happens is you are bringing in your secondary but in terms of colors, such as a clear spring wearing the black of a winter.  That is where the systems would diverge, because then you are losing the light upward movement of lighter colors.

If Summer correlates to Type 2/Tone II, it is all yin with a downward movement, yet fairly still.
DYT associates water with T2, while Wright uses air for this season, but they both have the same shapes 
(s curve and tear drop).

"These tones are also delicate, but they are subtle and cool, most of 
them containing grey.  The hues have a percentage of blue added and 
chromatic values are relatively low. They can be dark, but are never heavy."*

So comparing these guidelines for the 2/II category to the three Summer season breakouts, what happens again is you are bringing in your secondary but in terms of colors, but in the case of this season, it's not too far reaching from the guidelines.

If Autumn correlates to Type 3/Tone III, it is all yang with an active, creative movement, like fire.

"These colours are again warm, but more intense and more subtle 
than Group 1, sometimes with very high chromatic values and usually the 
addition of some black. The hues have yellow or red  added  to  them."

Wright uses a square for the masculine energy of Autumn Type 3, while DYT uses triangles 
and geometric shapes.
Riter also uses square for the masculinity of this season.
Kitchener uses rectangle, square and triangle.

So comparing these guidelines for the 3/III category to the three Autumn season breakouts, what happens is you are bringing in your secondary but in terms of colors, such as a deep autumn wearing the black of a winter.  That is where the systems would diverge, because then you are losing the energetic movement of warmer colors.

If Winter correlates to Type 4/Tone IV, it is yin, with some yang, and very still (no movement), like earth.
Wright uses a triangle shape for Type 3, while DYT uses elongated rectangles and ovals.

"The essence of this colour group is contrast and strength. The hues 
have blue added and either white or black, although they can be pure hues... 
Pure black and white themselves belong in this colour group."

So comparing these guidelines for the 4/IV category to the three Winter season breakouts, what happens is you are bringing in your secondary but in terms of colors, such as a deep winter wearing the sepia of an autumn.  (Also, gray which is a neutral in the 3 Winter seasons, would not be included in the DYT, IE or Color Psych winter/4).  That is where the systems would diverge, because then you are losing the still movement of clear hues.

Colour Affects 908 Keyes House, Dolphin Square, London SW1V 3NB 

"With regard to colour preference, this theory puts  forward the idea that 
humanity too can be divided into four psychological groups that correspond 
to the four colour groups. People in these groups share certain psychological 
and physical characteristics. Possibly because of these shared psychological 
characteristics, they also share aesthetic responses to colour."

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Thursday, August 16, 2012

DISC of my DH

Earlier I shared my DISC scores.  Here are my husband's:

So Greg is a very high I style or T1.  His natural secondary is D T3 with S T2 closely behind.  In his adaptive presentation he tempers everything, though the proportions change showing more T2 S.  His inferior is definitely C T4.

Chef Greg

So primarily we are a T4 and T1 marriage.
I can also show T2 (T1 and T2) and so can he, and we can also show some T3.

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Dress for your Body Shape

 InsideOut Style Blog
Real Life Body Shapes – X

Real Life Body Shapes – V

Real Life Body Shapes – O

Real Life Body Shapes – I

Real Life Body Shapes – H

Real Life Body Shapes – A

Real Life Body Shapes – 8

Body Shapes Explained – Defining Points

X shapes (hourglass figures) have defined waists, but their shoulders and hips are the same width

  • It’s all about highlighting your lovely waist.  Wearing a well supporting bra will help to enhance your waist and make it more defined.  Don’t to forget to adjust your bra straps every 3 or 4 washes.
  • Don’t be afraid to tuck and belt.
  • Try belting over cardigans and jackets as well as tops.
  • The wrap dress is ideal for you.  Dresses in general can really enhance your feminine figure.  From sheath dresses to shirt dresses, try them on for size.
  • Bootleg jeans are ideal for your shape.  If you want to wear skinny jeans, wear with knee-high boots over the top to balance, or a tunic top to mid-thigh.
  • Avoid whiskering and distressing of jeans.
  • Patch pockets on pants or coats should be avoided.
  • Avoid low-rise jeans – commonly X shapes have a longer rise, and need a higher rise so that when they sit down their underwear is not exposed.
  • You will often find that wide-waistbands sit better on your waist than narrow ones.
  • A-lines are your friend – whether in dress or skirt shapes.  Make sure the fabric has as soft drape so that it doesn’t sit stiffly away from your body.
  • Skirts with pleats and gathers that fall from the low hip are flattering.
  • You will often find that more open necklines are the most attractive, they draw attention up toward your face.
  • Gored and trumpet shapes can work well.  Look for fabrics with some weight (but not stiffness) that doesn’t cling.
  • Keep tops to just under your high  hip bone, avoid pulling your tops down to hide your bottom or thighs, as this will actually draw more attention to them.
  • Darker bottoms and lighter tops are more flattering for you than the other way around.
  • You will probably find that skirts that end around the knee are the most flattering length.
  • Single breasted jackets are more flattering than double breasted.  Avoid ones that end just under the bottom, keep them either shorter, or 3/4 length.
  • Many X shapes have shorter legs, and will find it hard to buy trousers that don’t pull across the crotch. Skirts can often work better for your shape, especially if you have a longer rise.
  • To elongate your legs when wearing trousers, match shoe colour to your trousers, and keep the hem as long as possible, without dragging on the ground.  Cropped trousers are not as flattering on your figure.
  • Creases down the front of your trousers will also help elongate your legs.
  • Look for denims with a vertical weave.
  • Boxy shapes are not a good fit for your body.

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Wednesday, August 15, 2012


How similar are the seasonal systems with the type systems (DYT, IE, Color Psych, Science PD)?

Type 1 and Tone I etc. wear pastels mainly and probably wouldn't wear the navy, black or charcoal here.  But this could have to do with how to express your secondary, for example clear spring 1/4 might bring in winter's black...

Yep, Type 2 and Tone II wear that grey and navy spectrum.... yep.
Type 3 and Tone III wear the earth color spectrum, but it's interesting that the deep autumn may bring in the secondary 4 with it's black again....

Now, here its interesting that Type 4 and Tone IV are the ones to pair colors with black and white, yet in IlluminEssensce they stress draping both black and white because they note that not all Tone IV's can wear them.

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Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Morphology: Face Reading

Dr. Gerald Epstein


Bilious - Napolean (Choleric)
conquering, domineering, brooding and ruminating
doesn't require much sleep, active constructor-needs to make things happen

Sanguine - Reagan (Sanguine)
action oriented, fickle, good merchant
not terribly philosophical or analytical

Lymphatic - George Washington (Phlegmatic)
kind, tolerant of all other types, listens to his own drummer
prefers ideas to physical activity, not an initiator,
but companionable, accepting, a great organizer

Nervous - Woody Allen  (Melancholic)
darts in and out, doesnt like being in groups for long,
tends to be reclusive, artistic in an imitative way
highly evolved intellect and great perception,
but trouble sustaining things

  • In the sanguine temperament - generally found in a plethoric constitution - there is great animation and buoyancy of spirits, the bodily health is generally good, but when disease does attack the system it runs a rapid and severe course.
  • Choleric temperament is generally found in the bilious constitution. The increased and altered secretion of bile reacting on the moral and mental faculties has a tendency to engender ill-humor, outbursts of rage, and even a revengeful and malignant temper whenever excited. The complexion is generally of a yellowish tinge, the muscular fibre hard, wiry, and tightly strung. The patient is subject to bilious derangements, which are sometimes even provoked by violent fits of excitement.
  • The phlegmatic temperament, generally associated with the feeble or lymphatic constitution, is characterized by slow operations of both the mental and bodily functions, and tardiness and weakness of the reactionary power.
  • A melancholic temperament is readily known by the meditative, gloomy, or retiring disposition. Impressions are deep and lasting, and there is a tendency to look on the dark side and brood often in secret over things, which in the mind of others would be speedily forgotten. The patient is seldom subject to violent impulses or sudden impressions, and is liable to diseases of the stomach and bowels, which often assume a chronic character.

Read more:

Bilious/Choleric: (should be associated with T3)

Square (Earth) face shape: feisty, pugnatious, practical, materialistic  James Cagney or Dr. Ruth

Trapezoidal (Saturn) : meticulous and thorough, hypersexual, willful, slow to act. Clint Eastwood or Julia Roberts
Clint Eastwood has no planets rising.  His rising sign is Scorpio.  His Sun is Gemini and moon is Leo.
Julia Roberts has no planets rising.  Her rising sign is Cancer.  Her Sun is Scorpio and moon is Leo.

Long Trapezoidal (Uranus) : far-thinking, creative (esp. in the area of intellect and ideas), charismatic. Meryl Streep or Edward R. Murrow
Meryl has no planets near the ASC.  She is Leo rising.  Her Sun is Cancer and her moon is Taurus.
Edward has moon almost near the ASC (which should add roundness to the face).  He has Aquarius rising and moon.  His Sun is Taurus.
(Aquarius is ruled by Uranus)

Sanguine: (should be associated with T1)

Rectangular (Mars) : gregarious, social, action-oriented, easily bored. Ronald Reagan or Lucille Ball
Reagan has Mars rising in Sagittarius (which should add red to the hair and receding hairline).  He was an Aquarius with a Taurus moon.
Lucy has her moon rising in Capricorn (which should add roundness to the face). Her Sun is Leo.

Lozenge shaped (Venus): spunky, conciliatory, talkative, involved with social causes, family oriented. Elizabeth Taylor or Tom Cruise
Liz was a Sagittarius rising (no planets near ASC). She was a Pisces with a Scorpio moon.
Tom has Neptune rising in Scorpio (which should add glamour, mystery and chameleon quality).  He has a Cancer Sun and Leo moon.

Oval (Sun) : idealistic, detached, born to lead. Grace Kelly or Dwight Eisenhower
Grace had Venus and Mercury rising in Scorpio (which adds beauty and pointy chin).  Her Sun was also in Scorpio and she had a moon in Pisces.
Dwight had Saturn rising in Virgo (which makes one appear thinner).  He was a Libra Sun and Moon.

Hexagonal (Pluto): loyal, care-taking, aggressive, money-making. Ginger Rogers
Ginger had Gemini rising (no planets near ASC).  She was a Cancer Sun and Pisces moon.

Nervous/Melancholic: (which should correlate with T4, but it doesn't)

Triangular (Mercury): quick minded and quick witted, charming, elegant, show biz types and entertainers Woody Allen or Nancy Reagan, Madonna
Woody has Virgo rising (no planets).  He is a Sagittarius Sun with Aquarius moon.
Nancy was Libra rising (no planets).  She was a Cancer Sun with Leo moon.
(Mercury rules Virgo and Gemini).

Long Triangle (Mercury): philosophical, communicative. Fred Astaire
Fred had Saturn rising in Sagittarius (which causes one to look thinner and bonier).  He was a Taurus Sun with Gemini moon.

Lymphatic/Phlegmatic: (which should correlate with T2)

(Jupiter) Reverse trapezoid: benevolent, paternal, devotional, generous, tolerant. George Shultz or Margaret Thatcher
Margaret has Saturn rising in Scorpio (which causes thin appearance). She is a Libra Sun and Leo moon.

Round (Moon): poetic, lyrical, maternal, rhythm is slow, dreamy. Linda Ronstadt or John Candy
Linda is a Sagittarius Rising (no planets).  Her Sun is Cancer and moon Aquarius.
John was unknown rising sign, with Sun in Scorpio and moon in Cancer.
The Moon rules Cancer.

Oblong (Neptune): artistic in music and art, spiritual, dreamy. Duke Ellington
Duke had Aquarius rising (no planets). His Sun was Taurus and his moon Sagittarius.
Neptune rules Pisces.

Aries - Mars
Taurus - Venus
Gemini - Mercury
Cancer - Moon
Leo - Sun
Virgo - Mercury
Libra - Venus
Scorpio - Pluto (Mars)
Sagittarius - Jupiter
Capricorn - Saturn
Aquarius - Uranus (Saturn)
Pisces - Neptune (Jupiter)

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